Light Issues

If your lights are not turning on when holding down the "+" button, your first step should be checking if they are connected. 

All of our lights, front and rear, only accept 6v lights; the older model City takes 48v rear lights. Our front headlamps connect with a julet connector which is tucked into your cable sleeve. It can be accessed by removing the sleeve and cutting any zip-ties holding it in place. Make sure it is connected properly and that neither of the pins somehow got bent. Be wary of the internal notch of the julet connector and make sure they are lined up. 

If the headlamp is connected properly there are two routes one can take. 

Troubleshooting Steps

• If you own a voltmeter check to see if a complete circuit can be achieved within the light unit itself. This test can be conducted by disconnecting the julet connector for the light and connecting the nodes of the voltmeter to the connector coming out of the light. If you do not see current flowing through the circuit, your light is broken and needs replacing. If you do see a complete circuit, your light is working fine and the issue is in the corresponding wire connected to the controller. We do not recommend attempting this fix yourself, but rather take it to a certified mechanic. 
  

• If your rear light is causing problems, you can follow the same steps above. However, some rear lights do not come with a julet connector and go directly into the controller. We recommend taking your bike to a mechanic when opening up your controller box but here are some steps for accessing the controller on hub-drive motors. 

• If the julet connector is completely disconnected, make sure to line up the arrows on each of the connection points before attempting to connect them.  
  
• If the light is properly connected, keep following the cable all the way to your headlight, and make sure that the cable has not been ripped or pulled out of the headlight casing. NOTE: If this is the case, soldering the wires back to the unit is required.

• NOTE: We do not recommend you do this yourself and you are solely liable for any damages caused by opening the controller box. 
  • For all our bikes with hub-drive motors, other than the Easy, the controller box is located down by the bottom bracket; for an Easy it's located in the battery tank. Once inside the controller box or battery tank, you will be able to pull out the controller. Be sure to be extra careful, for you don't want to damage or disconnect anything coming into the controller. 
  • Once carefully removed, pry off the cable clamps or snip all zip-ties securing the rear light cable to the frame. Grab the end closer to the light and gently pull on the cable. Watch for cable movement coming out of the controller box and you will find the proper connection point. 
  • Scan the entire length of the cable to ensure it's not loose, frayed, torn or cut. If the cable looks good, take a voltmeter to the pins of the connection point for the light (36v systems) or connect the voltmeter to the julet connector for the cable coming out of the controller (48v systems). If it does not complete a circuit, there is a chance that one or many parts of your controller experienced a short and got fried; this can include but is not limited to capacitors, fuses, or shorts in the 6v light supply board. NOTE: All of our controllers are filled with a firm form-fitting rubber compound surrounding the circuit board inside the controller; this is to protect it from water/moisture and vibration/shock. Due to this compound, we are unable to work on the internal parts of the controller, resulting in a full replacement of the controller. 

The steps above can also be applied to diagnosing the headlamp as well. If the issue persists, you will need to take the bike to your local e-bike shop or bring it into our shop by scheduling an appointment here.